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Collectables: Beaded Bags & Purses |
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Contributed by Deb Moffett-Hall
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Wednesday, 22 February 2006 |
Collectables
Beaded Bags and Purses
Although they are among the most fragile of all purse styles beaded models are still easy to find. Why? It may be that their owners treasured them even after they fell into disrepair or phased out of fashion. When cloth or leather handbags grew worn or broken they were often discarded. Beaded purses, on the other hand, were carefully wrapped in tissue and placed into a drawer or deep into a cedar chest.
Sometimes a faded handwritten note is found tucked inside with interesting comments about the maker, the occasions it was carried or even which outfit the purse matched. The original ensemble has probably long ago turned to dust but the handbag, purse, or reticule gains new life as a treasured collectable.
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| In early 1800 Reticules, also called "indispensibles" (sic), were bags gathered at the top with one or two drawstrings. The French also sometimes referred them to sarcastically as "Ridicules". Perhaps this was because Empress Josephine always carried a handkerchief in her reticule to hide her unattractive teeth while laughing or talking thus avoiding ridicule? Reticules were often made of the same fabric as the garments and were decorated with embroidery and beadwork. | By the 1850's dark blue and black bags accented with steel cut beads, jet beads and spangles (sequins) were all the rage. The Pictorial Review Company sold patterns printed with yellow ink that could be transferred by a hot iron onto these dark colors and stitched with bead embroidery. |
Another common method of construction was to stitch the beads onto special silk net called Pointe de tulle. The beads were stitched one at a time to the net much like modern needlepoint wool is stitched onto canvass. A painted pattern was attached behind the Tulle and torn away when the beading was completed. Many bags imported from Czechoslovakia were assembled using the tulle method and were sold through the Sears Roebuck Catalog. These imported reticules are easily recognizable by their bold patterns, larger beads, and skimpy fringe. | | As Knitted & Crocheted beaded bags grew in popularity Godey's Lady's Book, The Pricilla Bead Work Book, Corticelli Silk Mills of Florence Massachusetts (makers of 3 ply silk purse twist), and the Hiawatha Company were considered excellent sources for patterns & instructions. |
| In the late 1800's the Miser's bag/purse became popular for both men and women and was used primarily to carry money and coins. Sometimes called a long purse or stocking purse it could be stuffed into a greatcoat pocket, held in the hand or folded over a belt or even hidden under the outer clothing for security. The opening for the Miser's purse consists of a lengthwise slit in the area between the pouch-like ends. The pouches were often worked with different beaded patterns, finished with different fringes or even stitched into completely different shapes. The owner would place certain denominations of coin in one side and another kind in the alternate pouch. They could then determine by feel which type of money they were withdrawing while keeping the bag hidden from thieves. | The black Miser's bag shown in two pieces has an interesting story; the bag is in perfect un-used condition except for having been sliced in half. The newly completed bag was worn to town folded over Elizabeth's belt. The young matron was jostled on the crowded street, the bag was cut and thieves pulled the pieces away. The bandits were caught later that same day cutting the purse strings of another shopper. When their pockets were searched the halves of the miser's purse were discovered and returned to Elizabeth but the thieves no longer had her shopping money in their possession. Elizabeth began to make repairs but lost heart and tucked the two sections away with a note that explained the theft and declared the bag unlucky. |
Chatelaine bags came into fashion in the mid to late 1800's and remained a popular item into the early 1900's. A Chatelaine consisted of either a decorative metal hook that could be slipped over the waistband or belt or a metal finger ring from which an assortment of useful items would dangle on chains. Creating ornate chatelaine bags was a trendy activity but pre-made purses such as this model could be purchased from Bloomindales, The Montgomery Ward Catalogue, and Sears, Roebuck & Co. It sold for $4.95 with an additional 12 cents for postage.
Beaded bags can be found at estate sales, auction houses and on-line auctions. The new collector can select a style or time period to concentrate on or simply purchase bags that appeal as they come upon them.
Bags that are in good shape may be displayed in a variety of ways while those that are in fragile condition would fare better under glass in a shadowbox for protection. Be sure to use acid-free or museum quality materials to help safeguard your investment for years of enjoyment. | | Reference Books:
Handbags 3rd Edition, Revised and Updated by Roseann Ettinger, Schiffer Publishing Co. 1999
More Beautiful Purses by Evelyn Haertig, Gallery Graphics Press 1990 |
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